Sunday, January 13, 2013

BEAUTY:Clothing--Les Hommes

Les Hommes, headed by Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, showed a '13-'14 F/W collection at Milano Moda Uomo that, like their current '13 S/S collection (here), used evening wear and tuxedos as a springboard. For S/S, they reinterpreted tuxedo wear with light colors and light fabrics, creating a casual and slouchy silhouette, yet keeping the cummerbund pure and central in their deconstruction. But here they return to the elegance, drama, and classicism of the tuxedo. Cummerbunds are still center stage (being in the middle of the body, they can't really help it) but this time they are peeking out from under zippered bottoms of waistcoats. Models walked the runway to the strains of an achingly lovely violin concerto in sweeping capes which recall Old World Counts and Princes attending the opera, and somehow, the jodhpurs, riding boots, and military cuts of the coats later in the collection play nicely with it all, reminding me of scenes in ANNA KARENINA or WAR AND PEACE where men of note in the armed services dance with eligible young society women at grand balls. Unique pieces include a floor length skirt (which once upon a time would have been a very edgy idea, but these days nearly every single designer includes skirts, tunics, or kilts for men in their collections), and clear plastic jackets and rain coats (I personally love those!).
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