Wednesday, January 16, 2013

BEAUTY: Clothing--Armani

I have never posted anything from Armani, although I do like his clothing, and I have to admit to a weak spot for his cologne. But there is something that feels a little dated about Armani. Maybe I am flashing back to Richard Gere in "American Gigolo" and a certain 80s "power dressing" which feels forced and restrictive (due entirely to the culture at the time and nothing to do with the angularity and tailoring of Armani clothing itself). Despite the fact that the label has moved on and has since created some interesting collections, it still feels dated.

Yet at Milano Moda Uomo, Armani showed a Fall/Winter collection for '13-'14 that, even without a recognizable theme or fireworks (the things that draw me to the art of a designer or collection), seemed current. Actually I think the word I want is comforting. Nothing flashy or "art-school" here. There is something familiar, and intellectually and spiritually--as well as physically--warming about the pieces. Suits and sport coats are present but they harken back to another time period--no, earlier than the 80s--with their cut: rounded high collars, rounded hems, rounded shawl lapels, low-stance waistcoats, and double rows of military-style buttons. It has a classic, Dandy-ish feeling to it with some gorgeous knitwear and velvet jackets. And speaking of jackets, I particularly like the quilted down coat effect applied to sport coats. That feels current and new.
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