Friday, January 18, 2013

BEAUTY: Clothing--Yohji Yamamoto

Paris Fashion Week got underway yesterday and the first offerings so far have been marvelous.

Yohji Yamamoto, long a purveyor of a certain kind of Japanese deconstruction, presented a very strong collection in a show that was wobbly, eccentric, and zany. Models wore fake beards and mustaches, while saluting each other or in some cases, giving each other guff. The clothing, the designer says, was inspired by German portrait photographer August Sander, whose 20s and 30s photos clearly shaped the feeling of the pieces on the runway. Instead of trying to recreate a time period, Yamamoto used the beards and mustaches to highlight the serio-comic approach to his silhouette which included Yamamoto staples like wide cut trousers, and kilts and skirts, this time with fur inserts for winter. Unique touches are trousers under trousers, visible because the top trouser cuff is rolled to reveal the trouser underneath, and worker/bartender aprons (on Benjamin Dukhan sporting his own beard of course, and a new bleached blond razor cut angular bob!). But these flights of fancy were tempered by classic double breasted jackets, Homburgs and flat newsboy caps. All in all, a meaty collection full of texture, both literally and figuratively, with a lot to ponder and digest...
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